all mornings brought your name into me

Sapphires dropped from our lips when we kissed.
Red Fire opals backlit our dreams of
Every beginning, every ending,
Every walk in darkened moonlight.

I am calling out in dreams, through sweat, on paper to have him hear…

Images: © Quentin Shih
Text: From I am calling out by J. L. Nash ©, 2010

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what was he thinking

It was all passing, for the first time as well as the last. His eyes devoured everything yet hardly made things out. He did not know what he was thinking. It all seemed a long struggle which he could not decide if he’d won or lost. Parts of it he could hardly remember. The rest was still clear. But it was all back, falling behind. There was no use trying to save anything. After a while you began to understand that. In the end you got on a train and went along the river.

Images: © Ulrich Lindenthal
Text: From the book Cassada by James Salter

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ulrich lindenthal interview

Born of a sense of classical romanticism, always with an eye for the ephemeral portrayal of beauty in its most natural form, Ulrich Lindenthal talks to Predrag Pajdic about his inspirations, his passions and his perceptions surrounding him both as a person and as a great artist. This sensitive and in-depth interview takes a peek into the gentle space that defines equally time and beauty inside the mind of this creative talent.

PP. Were you always interested in photography?

UL. I have been taking pictures since I was a teenager. Back then, I would always carry an old agfa camera with me that belonged to my father and take pictures when we were on vacation. I remember no one really fancied my photography though, because I would see some tiny little butterfly on a marble ground in Italy and shoot it, and everyone would ask me: “why the hell did you take a picture of THAT?” I didn’t really care though, because to me, that butterfly would tell more about my trip than any repeatedly taken photograph of any church or a city view ever could. I think this is a tendency one can still see in my pictures today. To me it is about the image in my head more than the actual real life situation.

Apart from taking pictures myself, I was always browsing through books featuring works from photographers like Scavullo, Man Ray, or Mapplethorpe. I didn’t realise it back then, but today I think what attracted me was the symbolism in those photographs, the ‘not obvious’ part, and the feeling captured in a picture.

When I think of the pictures that I took in earlier years, they were predominantly about moments, smells, wind blowing through a curtain, light falling through a window. It was like putting every sensual reception into a box, and opening it again by looking at the picture again later. In this way, photography was with me throughout my life, even though I was employed in the travel industry back in the 1990’s until early 2000. At some point I realised how unhappy I was in my job, and spent more and more time working on the pictures I had taken than on my ‘real’ job. Then one day the company I worked for was sold to a Swiss company, and in the process they were to fire some of the employees. One of them was me. I was more than happy because I knew it was the kick in my ass that I had needed to start anew. So, I found myself jobless in my mid thirties, but it wasn’t hard for me to cope with it. I said to myself – it is time to do what I always wanted to do… become a photographer. And that is what I did, despite all those around me trying to tell me it would never work, because I didn’t have any education or experience in the field. I took part in a contest, I won the 1st prize, flew to Paris, picked up the prize money, and started.

PP. How did you get involved with fashion?

UL. In a way, I always have been involved with it. After school, I started to study fashion design in Berlin, my hometown. I was all enthusiastic about it, but cooled down rather quickly when I realised that fashion is not only about having great ideas and visions, but about long nights sewing pieces together, draping and all that. I felt it was not me, because although I was very good at sketching and designing, I was very bad at going all the way from the idea to the final product. It didn’t interest me at all. I just wanted to make the sketch, to deliver the idea. The process itself following the idea was a bore to me, as was the question of whether a trouser leg should be wide or tight, or a skirt should be short or long. I wasn’t enthusiastic enough to follow a career in the fashion industry. Without that enthusiasm I knew it would be a waste of time and I stopped going to fashion school after two years. But throughout the following years, I always knew I would come back to it somehow.

Berlin in the eighties was not the growing capital as it is now, a fashion industry. It had been extinguished after the war, companies had left the city… but you would find an enormously creative bunch of people coming to live in Berlin. I lived in condos for a while in Kreuzberg, meeting so many wild and crazy people, all creating their own fashion statements. At that time I went to the clubs like The Jungle or the Cri du chat, and was hypnotized by Jean Paul Goude and his videos for Grace Jones. Somehow I continued to make sketches for dresses; my first boyfriend was an artist, painting, drawing, sewing. I think it is those years back in Berlin, and trips to London and Paris in the early 90s, that influenced me a lot. Most things in my life have just happened, they simply came to me or maybe it was me searching for them really without knowing it. Perhaps in the end, everything always just happens by coincidence.

Speaking now, I would not even consider myself as a pure fashion photographer. I don’t think I see myself as that. Fashion comes kind of second in my pictures. It still is the moment, the face, the special look in the eyes, a movement of an arm or a slight twist of the head. The clothes are not the main actors. I still prefer to just put on a piece of fabric onto a girl’s head and play around with the shadows it throws upon her face than to concentrate on the dress she might be wearing. Another thing is, I have never been very contemporary in my view of fashion. I always feel that it is about beauty, the illusion, more than about the kind of photography that has been “in” for many years now, shooting people with a hotshoe flash and hard light jumping on a sofa. This kind of perception of fashion is so far from me. My fashion is what some might call old fashioned, and it took me a while to learn and accept that. It is about allure, a pose, a look. Not about the hip factor.

PP. You are a romantic, aren’t you?

UL. You know the answer, don’t you? And yet, somehow I seem to make a much less romantic impression on people when they see me… which is a good thing. Of course I am romantic when it comes to my work, I guess, where you will find romantic subjects i.e. from the romantic period of art such as longing, dreaming, fear, death, nature…

PP. Where do you get ideas for your work? What inspires you?

UL. It depends. I can never really tell. I do have some ideas in mind sometimes before I start a project. Like… with the ‘Stabat Mater’ series I had a clear vision of how the pictures should be, with two boys fighting each other until one of them is dead. Yet a lot of times, I just start and let myself get inspired by the person I work with, by the surroundings, the atmosphere. Sometimes I change my plans dramatically and end up with a totally different story. Music can be a great inspiration. I see music more than I hear it, and unlike other people who listen to music in order to help them to go to sleep, which is something that never works with me because there is always a film in my head when I listen to music that keeps me from falling asleep. Apart from that I guess photography – free work I mean – is a way to deal with one’s own thoughts, longings, cravings, fears, dreams. Just like any form of artistic expression. Faces inspire me. Eyes, bodies, lips, details…. Francis Bacon is an inspiration to me. I just have to go a long way until I am able to really express my visions when it comes to such drastic pictures.

A lot of old paintings inspire me as well, from the Renaissance period in particular, also movies from the late 30s – early 70s. I love the style of George Cukor films, or the French Tati movies. From contemporary photographers, I admire Steven Klein, Steven Meisel, Tim Walker, for their very own style, as well as Bruce Weber for his arranged spontaneity.

PP. What makes you excited? You know, to the point of hair standing on your arms or a shiver in your body?

UL. When I realise how much of my own self is in a piece of art, when I can actually sense what moved the artist when he did his work. It can be very saddening sometimes in a way of having an emotional breakdown because you see so much truth in a photograph or a sculpture, or in a piece of music. This is a very intimate and subjective moment I guess, and it will not affect everyone in the same way. I think trigger points are touched that make one react to a piece of art. The art must evoke some special feeling or long forgotten things that happened to you, or that you have been involved with emotionally. And sometimes it is just the shear beauty that gives me goose bumps. I surrender to that, for the sake of beauty. And I mean solid, true beauty. The one you find in a face without make up. And, although I consider myself a rather nonreligious person, domes and big churches give me that shiver. They have an impact on me I cannot really explain. But then again, I guess that is why they were built that way, they were supposed to give you that feeling. And again, the paintings of Francis Bacon, even though they are so frightening sometimes. It is something I can’t explain, and maybe I don’t even want to be able to explain.

PP. Your images are breathtakingly beautiful. Does it take a lot to get that perfect shot?

UL. Thank you. The most beautiful pictures usually seem to take the least time to be shot. In my opinion, there either is beauty to be seen and captured, or there simply is not. In the latter case, there is no use in trying to get something out of it. The longer you try, the less you will get. Usually, I know instantly when I see a person in front of my camera if – to me that is – whether beauty lies within the man or woman, or not. I let them move a bit, just to reassure myself of what I think or might be seeing. And then I know what their beauty is to me, and just start shooting.

I know very well that not everyone shares my point of view when it comes to the definition of “beautiful”. My own perception has changed so much over the years, and I am glad it did. If I have learned one thing for myself, then it is that perfection is by no means beauty. There has to be more than mere perfection. Also beauty without brain is the biggest turn off that can happen. In the end I depend on the person I photograph. I am not the type of a photographer who shouts at people in order to get his picture, which is a bad thing sometimes. I wish I could yell at someone so he or she would realise how beautiful they really are. The very best pictures are the ones where you can sense the total trust someone gives me. If that happens, I am done within ten minutes.

PP. If you could start your life all over again, would you change anything?

UL. You should ask me that when I start all over again. But I know this is not the answer to your question. So… all in all… not really. Even all the bad things that have happened to me turned out to bring something good. I am just very happy at where I am now in my life. Yes, you can always have more money, more luxury. I am certainly not someone who says he does not either of these things, but the older I become, the more I appreciate the things that no money on earth can buy: someone beside me whom I love and who loves me, health, happiness too. Still I have my family with me, healthy and happy.

I sometimes wonder what it would be like to live as a woman, but only for curiosity. I am a very happy and content man in all aspects. More than wanting to change anything I often just wonder how my life would be if I was born somewhere else, in another country, a poor country, under different circumstances or even in another time, like in the Dark Ages. But I am not sure I want to start all over again. I often joke about my worst fear: one where I am old, I had a good life, I am happy and more than ready to die, and then I die and think: yes, all is good, I can just go off now and lay down and rest. Then this voice comes out of nowhere telling me “get up young man. No time for rest! New life begins now!

PP. Can you remember your dreams?

UL. Sometimes I can, sometimes not. Some dreams I had as a kid I can still remember very clearly, more clearly than who was my classmate for example in elementary school. But remembering dreams is not the fun part to me. I don’t care much about it. I know that my brain tries to sort out certain things. Much more fun and interesting is when you realise you are dreaming while you are dreaming. I don’t have that very often, but when I do, I just love it. You can direct your own dream… try it when you get the chance to do so!

PP. Do you believe in destiny?

UL. How long do you want this interview to be? Yes and no. I do and I don’t. Perhaps more, I do. I believe things happen for a reason, and I do believe that sometimes you have to go through deep shit just to realise what is wrong, and how to get over it. A lot of the people I have met in my life turned out to play an important role, in what ever way… even if I didn’t know it at first sight. Sometimes it took years, before I met them again. Sometimes it was just for a second that I knew them but this very second was an important one. What I definitely believe in is that you are responsible for your own destiny. You can change it, if not all, then at least a major part, be it by thoughts or deeds.

But more then anything else I believe in love. It stays forever in your heart, it makes you strong, it comforts you through death and sickness. I believe you can feel the love of loved ones even when they are gone. There is no bigger reason to life than to find love… and give love… the true kind.

Images: © Ulrich Lindenthal
Text: © Predrag Pajdic, August 2010

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how soon is now?

So when you say it’s gonna happen now.
Well when exactly do you mean?
See I’ve already waited too long.
And all my hope is gone!

Images: © Bell Soto, styled by John Tan with Dan Felton in the editorial Kingdom for the Asian webzine Visual Tales, 2010
Text: From the 1984 song How Soon Is Now? by Morrissey

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quentin shih

Images: © Quentin Shih

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in the dusty recesses of their minds

All men dream: but not equally, those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dream with open eyes, to make it possible. This I did.

Images: © Laurie Bartley
Text: From Seven Pillars of Wisdom (1922) by T. E. Lawrence (1888 – 1935)

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sam scott schiavo interview

“…there is a divinity moving you…
For all good poets, epic as well as lyric,
compose their beautiful poems not by art,
but because they are inspired and possessed…”
[Socrates’ words, taken from Plato's Ion]

Predrag Pajdic begins a new season of interviews with artists, in order to share, showcase and uncover what drives individual creative process. It is our utmost pleasure to commence this series with the incredible Vienna based photographer Sam Scott Schiavo.

PP. How does one decide to become a photographer? In your case, was it by chance, or did you always know that this would be your calling?

SS. Completely by chance, approximately 16 years ago, I was working as a booker in Florence Italy and a model showed me his quite horrible tests. I asked him how much money had he thrown away on it? He replied that if I could do better I should shoot him. I said I had no camera, but he did, so I shot him the next day. In university I had taken a course in photography 10 years prior but remembered nothing, in fact I was able to load the film but forgot how to remove it from the camera… so I brought it to the laboratory afterwards, the film still in the camera!

In the end the test came out very good. I asked the model to lend me his camera for a few weeks. I continued to practice and eventually purchased a used Minolta 35mm. My photographer friend Giuseppe that I would style tests for gave me some basic instructions and advice. I had a natural eye for composition and making the model feel at ease, which I feel is of the up most importance. That’s how it all started; I was a weekend photographer until only a year ago.

PP. What happened a year ago?

SS. Well, exactly a year ago I quit my full time job as a successful men’s booker, a job I had done for nearly 20 years. I left the security of a steady job with all its benefits, and moved to Vienna to devote myself to photography. It was not an overnight decision. I had been considering this evolution for 3 years as I had become stale on a personal level in Milan. I needed a change of scenery, some fresh air to boost my creativity. I was not getting any younger. I am aware of the competition, difficulty and crisis in the business but as a double Capricorn, I am willing to climb the hill, as steep as it may be. It has been a rocky road but I have no intention of turning back.

PP. That is certainly something to be admired. Why Vienna?

SS. I wanted a complete change. I had been coming to Vienna for eight years scouting for the agency. After the first few visits I started to appreciate the city, returning even for long weekends, gradually forming a network of friends here. Also, the city is very liveable, clean and appreciates the arts. It is also easy to reach other amazing cities like Prague and Budapest. I feel that this Eastern part of Europe has been fairly neglected. There are some excellent locations for photo shots and amazing models. I find it visually and emotionally stimulating and I think it shows in my recent works.

Each day I wander around and explore the city’s nooks and crannies. I feel at home here. There are many, many obstacles to still overcome. Italy will always be in my heart; I still have an apartment there and travel back and forth.

PP. You have been working with some beautiful male models. Are they really that stunning, or is it you as a photographer, who manages to get the best out of them?

SS. As clichéd as it sounds… I try to find the inner beauty in them all, but usually during their grooming or a beginning conversation, whilst sharing some small talk, I study their plains, their angles, I look for their best features so I know what to emphasise and their flaws to hide. A simple shadow or change of angle, the right hair styling, all can make a world of difference, as it is of the utmost importance for the model to feel confident, secure and beautiful.

PP. Photography is a complex practice. It takes a lot of work from the first idea until the final print is ready. What is your favourite part of that process?

SS. I would say the initial start of the idea, when it’s all still in my imagination. I plan a photography project very similar to a film; first the story line, the theme, a story board, the cast of characters, a title and even soundtrack are all in my head long before it becomes concrete.

PP. Do you prefer shooting in a studio or a location?

SS. I prefer shooting at a location, in a lived in environment or even my home. I feel that walls, objects and decor all add to making a more intimate memorable image. Also, as I prefer working with natural light, the light at a location is ever changing through the day, realistic, as is life, never exactly the same.

PP. What is the feeling you get from seeing your images on a cover or pages of a glossy magazine?

SS. A feeling of satisfaction, of personal accomplishment. I think, well maybe I should stick with this thing called photography, I made the right choice!

I much prefer print magazines, call me old fashioned but I am old school. I like to turn the pages with my hands, use all my senses looking at a book or magazine.

PP. With internet changing the way how we communicate and share information today, do you believe that there is a future for printed magazines?

SS. Yes, I certainly do, even if they become only for the elite or collectors, just as I believe there is still a future for analogue! I have recently become involved in a men’s printed magazine project, if I did not feel strongly that there still is a future for printed magazines, I would not participate at the level I have been doing.

PP. Who are the photographers that influence you most?

SS. There are many of the old masters that I am still in awe of their work, a few to mention are Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, Herbert List, Scavullo, and Disfarmer with Ellen Von Unwerth, Peter Lindberg, Gianpaolo Barbieri and Koto Bolofo, all greats that didn’t or do not rely on postproduction.

PP. Do you prefer black & white or colour prints?

SS. I will always love black & white, it’s cinematic and I started my decent into photography shooting analogue with TRI-X film, so it will remain close to my heart. Yet these past few years I have been appreciating the use of colour and its variations.

PP. Photography is closely related to moving image. I hope I am not wrong in saying that your work has this quality. Some of your photographs are almost as film stills. Would you ever consider making a movie?

SS. Yes, I agree, and in my case 200%!  My grandmother would go to the cinema once a week. I remember the old theatre well, The Liberty, and I think it cost 5 or 10 cents to enter at that time. She would bring me with her for company when I was only a few years old. I remember going in my pyjamas with pillow and blanket in case I would fall asleep. I loved the darkness and just focusing on what was on the screen, and I continued to love the cinema as I grew older. I think this has influenced the way I see things in my shoots, I often create a still, a scene from a film, also the small details are important, in that simple close up, often just with a glance or a quiver of a lip, all is said. I also cast my models as I would cast an actor for a film, not only on their outward attractiveness but their personality is also important.

I have been toying with the idea of filmmaking, actually I am working on a short film project now. It will be my first, and I am sure it will be the first of many.

PP. What inspires you most?

SS. What inspires me the most? Beauty, non-banal… the hidden. I like to discover, disclose, uncover a secret, an emotion. There is little in photography which has not been done many times over, through the various generations; I do not pretend to create anything for the first time, but instead, I pull from my daily life, past and present, my surroundings and without a doubt from films and art works that have left a mark on me, interpreting in my own way, with my enthusiasm and creativity.

PP. What is your definition of beauty?

SS. Beauty is self-confidence, freedom and unabashed security in one’s self.  It truly comes from within, and naturally, if one is also beautiful outwardly, it’s an explosive combo!

Images:
© Sam Scott Schiavo
The Senior Deputy Editor of CLIENT magazine
Text:
© Predrag Pajdic, 2010

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retratos pintados

Yossi Milo Gallery is currently showing Retratos Pintados, an exhibition of hand-painted vernacular photographs from Brazil. This is the premiere presentation of these one-of-a-kind photographs.

Since the late 19th century through the 1990s, hand-painted photographic portraits were a common feature in homes in the rural areas of the northeastern Brazilian states. At a time when black-and-white photographs were not considered dramatic enough, the retratos pintados (painted portraits) glamorized and idealized their subjects. Black-and-white family photos were enlarged and painted, conferring status on members of the family and portraying them as icons or saints. Using oil washes and other techniques specific to the region, local artisans embellished clothing with pattern and color, smoothed wrinkles, added jewelry or resurrected deceased relatives, illustrating the fantasies and desires of their customers.

Due to advances in technology over the past 25 years, hand-painted photographs have become a rarity in the region, and the tradition of analogue portrait-making is being lost. Most portraits are now computer-generated, eliminating the charm and distinctiveness of each artist’s individual style. The exhibition includes approximately 150 unique, vintage painted portraits ranging in size from 8” x 10” to 16” x 20”. The photographs were selected from those collected by Titus Riedl, a European who has lived in the region for 15 years. Fit into simple frames and hung together in clusters, the exhibition reflects the way family photos might be displayed in the home.

Retratos Pintados, a book of 61 four-color plates of photographs from the collection of Titus Riedl with an introduction by Martin Parr and edited by Parr and Riedl, was published by Nazraeli Press in 2010 and is available at the gallery. The publication is the only documentation of a fading art form unique to the tradition of vernacular photography.

Until 18 September 2010
Yossi Milo Gallery
525 West 25th Street
New York, NY 10001
USA
T: + 1 212 414 0370

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the marvellous precipitate of desire

… In any case, what is delightful here is the dissimilarity itself which exists between the object wished for and the object found. This trouvaille, whether it be artistic, scientific, philosophic, or as useless as anything, is enough to undo the beauty of everything beside it. In it alone can we recognise the marvellous precipitate of desire. It alone can enlarge the universe, causing it to relinquish some of its opacity, letting us discover its extraordinary capacities for reserve, proportionate to the innumerable needs of the spirit. Daily life abounds, moreover, in just this type of small discovery… You only have to know how to get along in the labyrinth. Interpretive delirium begins only when man, ill-prepared, is taken by a sudden fear in the forest of symbols. But I maintain that for anyone, watchfulness would do anything rather than pay a second’s notice to whatever remains exterior to his desire.

What attracts me in such a manner of seeing is that, as far as the eye can see, it recreates desire…

Image: René Magritte’s Not to Be Reproduced (La Reproduction Interdit), 1937, oil on canvas, 81.3 cm × 65 cm, Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, Rotterdam
Text: From André Breton’s Mad Love (L’Amour fou), 1937

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the surreal house

Step inside a labyrinth of chambers, designed by acclaimed young architects Carmody Groarke, and experience The Surreal House – its haunted rooms, delirious forms, blasted architecture and cinematic dreamscapes – featuring a host of artists, architects and film makers including Salvador Dali, Marcel Duchamp, Alberto Giacometti, René Magritte, Man Ray, Joseph Cornell and Maya Deren through to more contemporary figures, among them; Rebecca Horn, Edward Kienholz and Rem Koolhaas.

At times enchanting, playful and at others, deeply disquieting, The Surreal House is a dwelling that is essentially everything that the rational, functional Modernist house is not.

Talks, performances and artists’ film in the Gallery every Thursday until 10pm.

10 June 2010 – 12 September 2010
Barbican Art Gallery
Barbican Centre
Silk Street
London EC2Y 8DS

What is The Surreal House?
Study day with the Open University
11 September 2010
Fountain Room
11am–5pm

What is the role and meaning of ‘the house’ in modern and contemporary art, film, architecture and culture? This study day explores issues raised by The Surreal House exhibition currently at Barbican Art Gallery, and considers the role and meanings of the theme of the house in modern and contemporary art, film, architecture and culture. It includes presentations and discussions by curators, art historians and writers.

With Jane Alison, Senior Curator, Barbican Art Gallery; Gill Perry, Professor of Art History, OU; Barry Curtis, Professor of Art History, Royal College of Art; Brian Dillon, UK Editor of Cabinet; Dagmar Weston, Dr of Architectural Theory, Edinburgh University; Krysztof Fijalkowski , Dr of Art History, Norwich School of Art and James Lingwood , CoDirector, Artangel.

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