In the world of men’s jewellery, it is not often that we can be stunned by creations that are seminal in a new trend: cock rings worn as bold accessories out in the open. The imagination and wit displayed in the jewels of Aris Nikias at Esculpta seduced us into a titillating fraternity of male sexuality, fashion and beauty.
LB. We will start from the beginning. What made you fall in love with jewellery?
AN. Jewellery is innately fascinating to me, as it is one of the few art forms which must obey the principles of ergonomics and structure. Furthermore, the desire to decorate oneself with jewellery is an ancient and primal instinct that is not based on need (like clothing for warmth) but on expression and desire. I find the subconscious relationship of man with jewellery fascinating and this is something I have always been interested in de-coding. I have been very fortunate to have been brought up in a family background which has created and collected antiques and jewellery for almost two centuries. This extensive contact with jewellery provided me with the opportunity to play with precious materials from a very early age and to get a true feel of the essence of the metals and their capabilities. Without this background and the sort of family culture which appreciated all finely made items made with true skill and craftsmanship, I doubt that I would ever have had the opportunity to develop any skill in such a specialized creative field.
LB. Are there special moments of bonding you can share with us about your family and the art of making such beautiful things for others?
AN. My family has been attached to the creation of jewellery for many generations. Although my parents came from two different countries and backgrounds, it happens that both families had numerous skilled silversmiths in their ancestry, some as far back as the early 1700’s.
The bond between my family and the crafting of silver has also shaped my family’s destiny. For example, in the 1800’s my great grandfather was fiercely abducted from his home in Asia Minor by the Ottoman rulers like tens of thousands of Greeks at a very difficult time of political turmoil. My great-grandfather’s skill in crafting silver ornaments made him one of the very few in his region who eventually escaped the Turkish captivity and the labour/death camps. Despite their brutality against Greeks, the Turkish aristocracy and governors at the time were nonetheless appreciators of finely crafted silver and all things fine. He used his exceptional experience and skill as his ticket to survival. By making ornate carved silver swords for the Sultans, he earned their respect and favour and was eventually able to negotiate his freedom. He was one of the very few Greeks from his region who ever returned home surviving the executions.
The second story I have is an anecdote associated to my name. Nikias was a politician and general in Athens that lived from 469-413 BC and was famous for making peace between Athens and Sparta. Like most generals, Nikias came from an affluent family, but I read only recently that his family in particular happened to own the only silver mines that surrounded Athens. Nikias’s mines therefore supplied this city with the silver needed for the Athenians to make their coins and jewelry. When I discovered this fact only last year, I began to believe in the Karma of names and that there might even be some silver dust somewhere in my veins.
LB. The concept of jewelled intimate objects looks wonderful to me. How did the idea originate in your studio?
AN. I strongly believe that every item of jewellery is an intimate object and that the desire to wear it originates from a pure and instinctive need to embody and express our own energy – therefore the fundamental power of jewelry is inevitably erotic. Mankind conceived jewellery many millennia ago. It has never been an object of function but only one of fantasy and desire. This liberates jewellery from being an item of specific function and makes it intensely personal. My feeling is that where there is desire, there is eroticism – therefore creating jewelry for nudity was a very natural development of this feeling.
The timing was also perfect to develop an item like this. The jewellery trade has been liberated by social changes and yet most traditional jewellers fail to see this, insisting on following the same old rules, which are outdated. For example, 30 or 40 years ago people did not shop for jewellery as they do today. Back then, over 80% of jewelry worldwide was paid for by men and worn by women! Today however, women will select and purchase jewelry for themselves and so will men. The process of selecting jewellery is more liberated and in itself more personal and intimate.
LB Has the History of Greece or other geographical regions inspired your work?
AN. My half Greek heritage has always inspired me and allowed me to appreciate a more classical perspective of art, but ethnicity or origin are not so important to me. I am inspired by Greek sculpture in general but having said this, not all Greek sculptors were as good as say Polykleitos or Praxiteles. I am equally enamoured of the more contemporary Henry Moore and abstract Constantin Brâncuşi or the architecture of Zaha Hadid. All of these creators are from different backgrounds and countries. I believe art and design are universal, so it is hard to say that a certain historic period or country generates exceptional art. All civilizations generate culture of one form or another, beyond this point it is more the question of the ability of every individual creator to give it expression.
LB. Did you get any opposition from friends or family about the line of men’s intimate jewellery?
AN. As a creative individual, even though I am interested in hearing others’ opinions, I am always true to my own gut feeling and must follow what this tells me. I believe that the first and foremost person that one must be true to and never let down is one’s self. In starting the C-rings project, I was quite conscious that such designs might possibly raise all kinds of reactions. I chose not to disclose the project until it was complete. Once the designs were made, photographed and presented, the overall quality and solidity of the project was such, that apart from some giggles and some blushing – by the more conservative, there could not be any substantial ground for criticism. On the contrary, I received praise even from places where it was least expected.
LB. The images and models are wonderful and not one bit vulgar, which some people associate with that broad spectrum of toys and fetish items. Have they helped to illustrate the concept across to your clients?
AN. I am truly happy to hear this. The reason I believe there is nothing vulgar in the images is most likely because my own view has been that there is nothing vulgar in something simply beautiful and erotic. On the contrary, vulgarity only occurs in the absence of good taste. When conducting research for the early stages of the design process of Le Cock Ring, I found that most of the existing C-Rings on the market, were very cheap and unimaginative, which contributed to making the whole idea of C-Rings a little tacky. This created the need for me as a designer to prove that a cock ring can be a piece of jewelry made with the same quality and finesse as any other jewel. I stuck firmly to this vision and this mindset was later very much in sync with the choice of models, the styling and the presentation. Then at the time of the main photo-shoot, I was privileged to have had the collaborative assistance of a men’s swimwear company called Vizeau who directed the styling and photography with a specific attitude and feel that was very much in line with and complementary to my own. This label was one that I had previously established common grounds in aesthetics with, but apart from taste, they also had the expertise and experience to see this through beautifully. I am very happy with the way this item is presented and I believe the overall imagery indeed communicates successfully to the viewer the true spirit of the design as it was intended as well as an idea of what to expect from this piece with regards to its level of quality and aesthetics.
LB. How did the collaborations begin?
AN. Creativity attracts creativity and I am very much in favour of synergies, particularly when there is a common creative ground to give birth to something productive. Esculpta’s collaboration with Vizeau started out by the exchange of compliments over email regarding the design qualities and from mutual respect in each others’ work. It soon became clear that the two specific ranges of jewelry and swimwear were potentially very complementary to one another with regards to photo-styling and more. Both of us had similar visions and often an overlapping audience so it was natural to experiment on sharing various marketing efforts and to participate in mutual projects.
LB. Which are favorite pieces you enjoy wearing?
AN. I am always fascinated by the current pieces I am working on and tend to become fixated with an item until it is 100% complete. Often, this means wearing incomplete pieces and deciding spontaneously on their final touches when I have the time to study them with a fresh perspective in a random environment, such as in a park or over a glass of wine at a nice café. Once I am fully satisfied with one piece, I can allow it to qualify for sale, then I am ‘released’ from it mentally but never emotionally and the challenge of creating the next piece begins.
I cannot really decide on a favourite, as it is much like asking a parent to choose which is their favorite child. Each one is unique and has a worthwhile individual character.
LB. Of course, we would like to know if you wear the C-rings yourself?
AN. Of course! I would consider it quite deceitful to offer something to others that I did not personally recommend for wearing. Wearing the C-Ring is exciting, even when I’m in public and I’m the only person who knows I’m wearing it. The fact that it is my own secret that is hidden from common eyes makes it even more sexy to wear. As any other secret, it cannot be shared with just anyone, but just sometimes, in the right company, it can be fully worth confiding.
LB. What are you working on at the moment?
AN. I am currently working on a unique creation which is a great deal of fun to use, offers function and has a unique proposition for men of all ages. I can’t tell you much more until its launch preparations are complete but trust me, it is quite an idea that could change the way men’s underwear is seen. No more comments on that.
LB. If you had the choice of a different career, what would you choose?
AN. Definitely something creative. I would chose architecture or something else design related. And although I love art, and am creative, I could not however, imagine myself as an artist. I agree with the saying that “the main difference between an art and a design is that the Artist creates in order to solve his own problems, while the Designer creates to solve everyone else’s”. I like meeting the challenges associated with creating something for others to use and enjoy.
LB. Tell us about your creative process and your personal involvement with the clients.
AN. I love to work on the designing of new pieces but this requires a very specific mind-set which has to be spontaneous and therefore cannot be forced into a time schedule. As a designer, you never know when a good idea will come and whether you will be in the right state of mind to see it through in the best way. An idea may hit you when you least expect it, then you have to work on it fast before you miss the inspiration. One of my best ideas came to me in the metro in Athens where I was desperately searching for a pen or pencil to sketch out the clasp mechanism and materials for C-ring 1. Another favorite design occurred in a bar on a paper napkin, another was sketched on the sand of a remote beach whilst on holiday, without a pen or paper with me.
I consider design to be the single most important thing I do, but designing alone can drive a person crazy as it is easy to become fixated on a particular problem before you find an adequate solution. It is something you can lose sleep over in some periods and get “writer’s block” in others. In order to make myself productive during all times, I like to enroll myself in anything which is related to my jewelry such as marketing, production and quite often following up with clients.
I find it particularly fun to communicate directly with customers because a lot of positive energy put into my pieces during their creation is very frequently returned to me by satisfied clients who are wearing my work and who provide feedback. The transaction of energy in this is incredible and a lot more fulfilling than any financial gain. It is perhaps similar to meeting a new parent that has ‘adopted’ one of my pieces. I am always flattered when I know that there is one more fan out there around the world that enjoys my work and it is this mutual energy that drives me to create more new ideas.
LB. Are the clients naughty in their correspondence to you?
AN. To be honest, most correspondence is not dirty at all. Clients whether previous or new seem to know what they want from our products and have quite a taboo-free attitude to placing an order or communicating with us if they have specific queries regarding anatomy. From time to time however, we have received a few extremely naughty photographs from clients wearing their new intimate possessions – but I guard them with utmost confidentiality and will certainly not be lending them for this interview.
LB. Thank you for your candour. What are future products we can watch out for?
AN. Many thanks in return. It has been a great pleasure to be interviewed by you. Regarding your last question, there is one very interesting new product on the road to creation which is radical in that it is neither a jewellery item or a garment, nor a toy but is a hybrid consisting of all 3 elements. This has been thrilling for me personally as it is a brand new area with fresh challenges and much fun had in the process. I really shouldn’t disclose any more details about this project at present as there are several copyright issues to address first but it will be my great pleasure to present it to you this coming summer.
Wishing you and your readers a fruitful 2010 full of health, inspiration and success!
Text: © Lucius Bod, 05 January 2010. Images: © Michael Ching Models: Tommy Dion, Anthony Vasconez and Jonathan Simos. Swimwear: Vizeau. Jewellery: Esculpta
